By Michelle Hu
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These days, it’s hard to find a decent place to have some decent Asian food. The majority of them have sub-par restrooms adjacent to sub-par kitchens, and those of you who enjoy all-you-can-eat buffets know this well. Some produce dishes so atrocious they feel the need to add MSG, even though they have signs proudly proclaiming that they don’t. Even in a relatively large city like Indianapolis (the 12th largest city in the United States), true Asian restaurants are a rare commodity, but it doesn’t mean fusion restaurants can’t make up for that deficiency.

Miyagi’s, a self-proclaimed Japanese restaurant with French influence, more than makes up for Indianapolis’s lack of sophisticated Asian eateries. Though the furniture attempts to create an urban atmosphere, it actually could use an interior decorator’s touch, but the environment is the last thing on your mind when dining at Miyagi’s.

The entire place has a casual feel, from the votive candles to the bar on the far right of the room. The waitresses are friendly and prompt, despite the negative comments on them on the restaurant’s online reviews. Perhaps, they fired those servers and brought amiable ones on board.

One major flaw, however, is that their menus seem to be old; that is, they have failed to update their menus, an act appropriately dubbed bypassing menu costs in basic economics. Some of the items recommended to me were missing from the list, and it was probably due to laziness on the restaurant’s part. Not a good sign, especially in a recession, when failing to adjust menus could lead to price stickiness (not following the economy’s price changes).

But let’s put all of that to the side. Miyagi’s is known for their sushi, and it certainly lived up to its fame. One order comes with six rolls, which makes each one cost a hefty $3. I’m far from a sushi expert, but the price tag seems a bit excessive, even with all the embellishments and sauces. When actually taking apart the rolls (don’t ever do it unless you’re writing a review; it’s one of the sins of eating sushi) there seems to be little “content” inside. I ordered some with eel and I failed to find any. Perhaps all of the sauce was just covering it, since it seemed to take up half of the dish. In addition, the wasabi on the side is dreadfully minimal, especially for those who enjoy an exciting rush of horseradish.

Once again, compared to complaints I have for other Asian restaurants, these are minimal. In all reality, the sushi is worth every penny since the flavors all come together exquisitely. The downside is that some people are put off by strong flavors, whereas others like me are drawn to them. I have a hunch that every dish Miyagi’s serves is laden with sodium and spices, which may be a little too overpowering. One dish that counteracted this imbalance was the Diablo Roll, sushi with a slice of sashimi (raw fish) on the top. The subtle taste of the raw salmon held the powerful spices of the rest of the roll at bay, and tasted fresh (but not too fresh to the point of smelling like a fish market). I’ve heard that the Diablo Roll is the restaurant’s specialty and is worth a try.

Rarely have I ever tasted a sushi roll worth eating in one bite, as is conventional when eating sushi. Typically, I try a little bit of one in case it tastes strange or too fishy, but the dishes Miyagi’s serves are almost perfect. The sauces don’t taste like any other restaurant’s, and are symbols of Miyagi’s signature taste.

In addition, I tried the lobster teriyaki, which sadly to say, was much too pricey for something most people could make. At $24, it took up less than ¼ of the plate and once again consisted of half sauce. Only this time, the other half was broccoli and lobster tempura (seafood with a fried shell). The sauce was much too salty even for someone who enjoys salty food, but luckily it came with a rice pyramid. Quite cleverly arranged, the rice came with corn and peas and definitely took away some of the intense salinity the dish contained. It could not, however, justify why exactly the lobster had to be so fried that it began tasting like pork. This is a sophisticated restaurant, not KFC where every meat can and will be thrown into a deep fryer. On a pettier note, the broccoli was tough and tasted quasi-raw, which is never a good taste for vegetables (only steak).

Something else I failed to understand was the restaurant’s penchant for placing raw onions as a garnish on every single dish, since they contributed little to the overall taste. Still, they did not diminish the taste of each dish, but were merely there as a decoration.

Lastly came the dessert, which was probably the best part of the evening. If you’ve never tried this before, you must at some point; mochi, a Japanese dessert, is possibly the most amazing food you’ll ever have. It’s ice cream encased in a rice gelatin, and the ones served at Miyagi’s are drizzled with a lemon-flavored (you guessed it) sauce. My personal favorite is the green tea mochi, though Miyagi’s was sold out of that flavor, along with strawberry. If this happens, try purchasing it at Trader Joe’s; a box of six is more than 50 percent less expensive than an equivalent of the dish at Miyagi’s.

An indulgent experience, Miyagi’s is worth a visit depending on personal preferences, but certainly a better dining locale than most Indianapolis restaurants. Be prepared, however; the extravagant meal will certainly drain your wallet.

Miyagi’s
Service: A
Food: B
Price: $7 to $40
Overall: B+